What does it look like to sustainably source fruit and veg? Do we need to survive the winter months on cabbage and root vegetables? What’s the best way to buy directly from farmers?
The UK currently imports 43% of our vegetables and 85% of our fruit, and while imported produce isn’t necessarily an issue if done through considered supply chains, walking through the fruit and veg section of a supermarket, you’d be hard pushed to tell what season it was. It’s often only on closer investigation of the country of origin that the locality, or lack thereof, becomes apparent.
Seasonality
A good place to start with eating more sustainable fruit and veg is to get in tune with the seasons. When you begin to learn when beans come into season, or what types of brassicas you might find at different times of the year, you start to view vegetables differently. Instead of focusing on what isn’t available, try celebrating the current highlights – the first peas of the year, or the different varieties of winter squash.
Eating seasonally doesn’t have to mean just eating British produce though – while locally grown fruit might feel like a bounty when surrounded by berries in the summer, it would also mean giving up juicy citrus fruit in the depths of winter. Buying well sourced imported produce can help bring variety into the months of root veg and brassicas; the challenge comes from understanding where and how the produce you buy is grown. How do you tell if the tomatoes you’re buying are supporting small scale farmers or exploiting migrant workers?
The answer is to buy from somewhere that has transparency within its supply chain. Guy Singh-Watson, founder of organic veg box company Riverford says, “Our research shows the most sustainable way to provide certain fresh produce like tomatoes and peppers year-round is to avoid the environmental madness of heated greenhouses in the UK, and instead we source directly from our trusted organic growers in Europe. By transporting by land and sea, and maintaining short, transparent supply chains and developing relationships over the long term, we get fresh sustainable veg that we can’t grow in the UK, with minimal environmental impact.”
Farming method
The two most common labels you might come across on fruit and veg are that of ‘Organic’ and ‘Biodynamic’. Organic means the farming methods are assessed and certified by a body such as the Soil Association or Organic Farmers and Growers. This prevents the use of certain chemicals, encourages practices such as cover cropping for fertility building and crop rotation, and requires strict record keeping from farmers.
The Demeter label means something produced to biodynamic standards in addition to being organic. This generally means that the farm aims to be self-sufficient and operate as a closed loop, not reliant on importing feed or fertility from off the farm, as well as using biodynamic preparations on their farm.
Labels don’t tell the whole story though, and don’t always guarantee that the produce is seasonal or locally grown. You will find farms who aim just to meet the minimum standard for certification, and those who embrace the principles in every aspect of their farming, going above and beyond, as Guy Singh-Watson explains; “At Riverford, we focus on going further than organic, by farming in a regenerative way too that also enhances soil health and nurtures wildlife and biodiversity – we take a whole systems approach.”
There are also farms for whom certification isn’t possible or practical because they are on rented land, or the cost is prohibitive. Buying from a local farm means you can get to know the people growing your food and see how it’s produced, helping you to look beyond a label.
Direct or retail?
Where you buy your produce is one of the biggest factors in sustainable sourcing.
Buying through a box scheme can be a great way to buy local, seasonal and organically produced produce. However, it’s worth doing some investigating into the box scheme and how it operates, as buying a veg box doesn’t automatically mean your veg is locally produced or seasonal.
With some smaller growers, a majority or all of the produce is usually grown on the farm you buy your box from. Many only run from (approx.) June – November when they can be self sufficient in vegetables, others supplement by buying in from other growers or wholesalers for produce they don’t grow or do not have enough of.
Some of these farms operate as Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) projects, and the CSA Network website has a map of these farms. Rather than buying a box each week, you (usually) commit to a season with the farm (which may then be paid for weekly or monthly).
“By committing to a seasonal or annual subscription, members receive a share of the farm’s freshest harvest, supporting people, plant and producer, fostering a direct relationship between farmers, customers, and the land and building a thriving local food community,” Suzy Russell coordinator of the CSA Network explains. Ed Hamer who runs Chagfood CSA continues; “CSA members typically share the risks as well as the rewards of the enterprise – building resilience in an increasingly challenging climate.”
There are also larger box schemes such as Riverford, but with these schemes it’s especially important to investigate the origins of the veg. Some, like Riverford, grow some themselves and buy direct from a network of farms in the UK and Europe, but others just use traditional wholesalers and much of the provenance information is lost. The Soil Association website has a list of organic box schemes operating around the UK and is a good place to start.
Another option is to explore farmers markets in your area, which can be a great way to see what produce is fresh and in season, and get to know the people who grow and produce it. Farm shops and independent grocery shops often stock local fruit and vegetables, though it’s always worth scrutinising where the produce comes from as, like box schemes, many will source heavily through conventional wholesale distribution channels.
A great resource to find out what’s available in your area is through Better Food Traders, a searchable online map that lists box schemes, markets and retailers who produce and sell sustainable produce. “Knowing where your fruit and veg comes from gives you a better understanding of farming practices, what vegetables grow when, and the supply chain that gets your food from field to plate,” Julia Kirby-Smith, Executive Director at Better Food Traders explains; “We’re working to make the sustainable food sector more visible and connect people with their local producers, so buying locally becomes part of people’s regular shopping habits.”
Affordability
It’s difficult to avoid the issue of affordability when looking at sustainable produce. A growing number of farmers and growers are looking at ways to make their produce more affordable whilst also running a viable business. Look out for farms offering sliding scale pricing or solidarity shares for those on a low income. You can Google ‘sliding share veg scheme’ and ‘solidarity shares veg scheme’ to see what might be available in your area.
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