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Ellen Warrell

Ellen likes the planet and likes good food. As copywriter for Riverford Organic Farmers, writing about sustainable food from inside the industry, she has learned how often ethics and appetite can clash. She is keen for open discussions about how everyone can best enjoy clean plates and clean consciences.

Posts by Ellen Warrell

  • tractor
    • Local sourcing
    • News from the farm

    What is the Hungry Gap?

    From time to time, you might hear the term Hungry Gap. This is the hardest time of year for UK farmers: a few weeks, usually in April, May and early June, after the winter crops have ended but before…

    By Ellen Warrell - 7th January 2019

    0
    • Animal welfare

    Ethical eggs: organic versus free range

    It is worth understanding the difference between free range and organic. Organic farming isn’t just about avoiding artificial chemicals; it’s a holistic ethos that encompasses a profound respect for…

    By Ellen Warrell - 18th August 2018

    1
  • Desert Island Discs
    • Ethical business
    • Guy Singh-Watson

    Guy Singh-Watson on Desert Island Discs – what did he pick?

    Riverford founder Guy Singh-Watson was the castaway on BBC Radio 4’s Desert Island Discs. Read on for his song choices, and the memorable Riverford parties of years gone by...

    By Ellen Warrell - 2nd July 2018

    0
  • Barnaby's Craft Beer
    • Eating & drinking
    • News from the farm

    Green tomato… beer?

    Barnaby’s green tomato saison was made using Riverford's surplus organic green tomatoes. But how did this unusual – and very tasty – tipple come about?

    By Ellen Warrell - 20th March 2018

    0
  • juicing
    • Recipes

    Juicing, blending and blitzing – what’s the difference?

    Fresh juices and smoothies are often spoken of in the same breath. Superficially they are very similar; both colourful cocktails, good veg box user-uppers, and tasty shortcuts towards your 5-a-day.…

    By Ellen Warrell - 13th January 2018

    0
  • Mince pies
    • Environment & ethics

    Riverford announces palm-oil free stance

    We’re very pleased to be able to say that from the start of 2017, Riverford has been 100 per cent palm-oil free. For the most part, this was straightforward to achieve: we added ‘no palm oil’ to the…

    By Ellen Warrell - 13th December 2017

    0

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Latest posts

    • The big interview
    • Organics
    • Eating & drinking

    Eating and ethics

    On the eve of opening her newest pub, Geetie Singh-Watson talks sustainable sourcing, gender equality and the secret behind running 'a bloody good inn'.

    By Nina Pullman - 14th November 2019

    0
    • Local sourcing
    • Farming

    Art ‘from the farm, of the farm’

    Becky Marshall meets artist Wendy Howarth who created a new series of paintings using Riverford vegetables as bases for ink and the farm as inspiration.

    By Becky Marshall - 14th November 2019

    0
    • News from the farm
    • Soil

    Record rainfall as winter starts early

    We have had 19 inches of rain since 1 September; half our annual average and more than double the same period last year.

    By Guy Singh-Watson - 14th November 2019

    0

  • Five best Christmas sides

    From hasselback potatoes, to clementines and carrots, to baked celeriac: enjoy these five new ways to make festive veg go from simple to stunning.

    By Becky Marshall - 14th November 2019

    0
    • Eating & drinking
    • Flexitarianism

    Seaganism, seaweed and seacuturie are top trends

    Top food trends of 2019 have been unveiled with ingredients from the sea, celery juice and unusual grains all gaining interest.

    By Nina Pullman - 12th November 2019

    0

  • Scientists 'morally obliged' to warn of climate suffering

    'The climate crisis has arrived and is accelerating faster than most scientists expect’, is the stark warning from 11,000 global scientists in a new report.

    By Nina Pullman - 7th November 2019

    0

Articles from other authors

Eating and ethics

When Geetie Singh opened the UK’s first organic pub in 1998, Tony Blair was Prime Minister, Britney Spears was in the charts and a new website called Google…

0 comments / The big interview

Art ‘from the farm, of the farm’

At Plymouth College of Art and Design this autumn, the MA post graduate show had some stunning landscape drawings on display by Wendy Howarth. Something seemed…

0 comments / Local sourcing

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  • RECIPE - Creamy Squash Pasta Bake ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Creamy and comforting, it’s almost hard to believe that this veg-packed bake is vegan. Mash the squash well and ensure that the sauce is thin enough to thoroughly coat the penne. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ 1 onion, finely diced 2 leeks, thinly shredded 1 small butternut squash, peeled & chopped into 2cm chunks 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 10g thyme, leaves stripped from stalk 10g rosemary, pick & chop 1 tbsp of leaves 1 tsp smoked paprika 100ml white wine 1 tbsp Dijon mustard ½ tbsp bouillon powder 200g penne pasta 10g parsley, finely chopped 50g walnut pieces, finely chopped 30g breadcrumbs 250ml soy cream 1 lemon ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Preheat your oven to 190˚C/Gas 5. Heat 2 tbsp of oil in a large saucepan & fry the onion and leek on a low heat for 10 mins or so. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Add the squash, garlic, rosemary, ½ the thyme and paprika to the onion. Cook for 1 min. Add the wine, let it bubble briefly, then add the mustard, bouillon and 400ml of boiled water. Simmer for 10-12 mins, until the squash is completely soft. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ While the squash cooks, fill a medium saucepan with boiled water. Add a pinch of salt. Boil the penne for 8 mins, until almost tender but with a fair bit of bite (it will continue to cook in the oven). ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ When ready, drain the penne and set aside. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Mix the remaining thyme with the walnuts, breadcrumbs and 1 tbsp of oil in a small bowl. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Coarsely mash the cooked squash in the pan. Stir in the soy cream and parsley (the mix should be spoonable and creamy). Season and add lemon juice, to taste. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Stir the penne into the squash sauce. Transfer to a baking dish. Sprinkle over the walnut mix. Bake for 15 mins, until golden and bubbling. Serve with a handful of salad leaves.
  • Check out Penny’s loofahs! These unusual additions to the @riverfordfieldkitchen polytunnel were planted back in May along with the squash and courgettes. By October they reached their full size. They have now been harvested and left to dry in a cool, dark and dry place until they have fully turned yellow. Penny will then peel the skin off and some lucky individual will be able to make use of it to give their back a scrub next time they are in the bath. We’ll report back with the finished product later this year. In Paraguay where this vegetable is more commonly grown, it is mixed with other vegetable matter and recycled plastic to create panels to build houses.
  • RECIPE - Cumin Roast Cauliflower Tagine ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ We have pomegranates for such a short season and they’re here right now, so we’re using their jewel-like seeds to garnish this calorie-light tagine. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ You'll need (serves 2): ½ large or 1 small cauliflower 1 red onion 1 garlic clove 2 tomatoes 20g apricots 1 tbsp harissa 1 tagine spice mix (1 tsp ground coriander, ½ tsp ground cumin, ½ tsp ground ginger, ¼ tsp cinnamon, ¼ tsp turmeric) 100g passata 1 tin chickpeas 15g parsley 10g chervil 10g mint 100g couscous 1 tsp cumin seeds ½ pomegranate 1 lemon ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Heat your oven to 190˚C/Gas 5. Chop the cauli into bite-sized florets. Toss in a roasting tin with 1 tbsp of oil. Set aside. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Finely dice the onion, then gently fry it, while you continue. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Finely chop the garlic. Roughly dice the tomatoes. Roughly chop the apricots. Roast the cauliflower for 10 mins. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Meanwhile, stir the garlic, harissa and tagine spice mix into the onion for 1 min. Stir in the passata, apricots, tomatoes, chickpeas and the liquid in the chickpea tin. Bring it up to a low boil, then cook for 15 mins. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ While the tagine cooks, boil a kettle. Altogether, chop the parsley, chervil and mint leaves. Put the couscous in a heatproof bowl. Add a pinch of salt and cover by 1cm with boiled water. Cover and set aside. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ After 10 mins, remove the cauliflower from the oven and toss with the cumin seeds. Roast for a further 5-7 mins, until the cauliflower is tender and starting to colour. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Meanwhile, halve the pomegranate, crossways. Over a bowl, use a wooden spoon or rolling pin to bash the base of ½ the pomegranate, so the seeds fall out. Pick out any yellowy-white bits of membrane, if any fall out. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Remove the cooked cauliflower from the oven and finish with a squeeze of lemon. Season the tagine, add a squeeze of lemon, and stir in 3/4 of the herbs. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Fluff the couscous up with a fork. Serve with the tagine topped with the cauliflower, pomegranate and remaining herbs.
  • Guy's news: Asking the wrong questions⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ This evening I spent 20 minutes gathering chestnuts. On the drive leaving the farm are fallen hazelnuts, crab apples, quinces & medlars, which join the already rotted damsons & plums. Is food so cheap & abundant that no one can be bothered to collect it? Or have we lost the knowledge & confidence to gather & prepare food without a sell-by date?⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Cranfield University recently published a study suggesting that organic farming, despite reducing emissions per acre, would increase emissions globally, food yields would reduce, resulting in more land being cultivated elsewhere.⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ The logic is sound if you believe that our global food system is driven by nutritional need. But we live in a world where more people are obese than undernourished, where 1/3 of food is wasted: the study's logic is that of unquestioned dogma.⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ In the tropical low-wage economies where food security is an issue, organic farming can be much more productive & is more socially & environmentally sustainable. Food insecurity is almost always the result of income inequality, iniquitous land distribution, or war.⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Globally we produce more food than we can eat - it’s just the wrong food, in the wrong mouths. We're asking over-simplified questions, because the important questions are too complex for our clumsy economics to cope with.⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ To loosely quote Einstein: “We can’t solve problems using the same thinking we used when we created them.” For years I've heard arguments that we need GM crops & artificial pesticides to feed rising populations, that intensively-farmed livestock produces more food for less methane & CO2, that the answer is 'sustainable intensification' as advocated by the agrochemical industry.⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Within a narrow frame, these statements can be accurate – but in a long-term, holistic view, they're invariably unquantified consequences. If there's no soil left, no pollinators & a decimated environment, we'll have paid a high price for the food that we waste.
  • RECIPE - Kefir Pancakes with Baked Plums ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ The ultimate weekend breakfast? Based around a traditional Russian recipe called oladi, these kefir pancakes have a slight sour tang that works perfectly with sweet fruit. The baked plums are a brilliant partner in late autumn. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ You'll need (makes 4-12 pancakes) 500ml kefir 1 egg, plus 1 egg yolk 40g caster sugar 300g plain flour 1 tsp baking powder Pinch of salt 6 ripe plums 1 cinnamon stick 1 star anise 1 nutmeg 3 tbsp honey Zest and juice of ½ an orange ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Preheat the oven to 180˚C/Gas 4. Halve the plums and place them in a snug-fitting roasting tin. Throw in the cinnamon stick, star anise and a cautious grating of nutmeg. Tip in the honey, orange juice and zest. Give everything a mix. Bake for 20 mins, or until the plums are soft and beginning to collapse. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ While the plums cook, whisk the kefir, eggs and sugar together in a mixing bowl. Sift the flour and baking powder into the bowl and then add a good pinch of salt. Mix together until smooth. Leave to rest for 10 mins or so. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ To cook the pancakes, heat a thin layer of oil in a non-stick frying pan and dollop generous spoonfuls of the mix into the pan. Cook over a medium heat, until golden brown on the bottom. Flip them over and cook the other side. You’ll probably have to cook these in two or three batches, so keep the first lot warm in a low oven. You should get at least 12 pancakes. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Serve the pancakes alongside the warm baked plums.
  • Don't fret, this won't be our last Christmas with Brussels. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Our Christmas shop is now open! Don't miss out - good food goes fast.
  • RECIPE - Maple Roast Carrots & Black Rice ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ This vibrant dish is the perfect combination of sweetness, from our earthy Chantenay carrots and plump apricots, and savoury, from the miso, tamari and herbs. The roasted carrots are served over nutty black rice with baby spinach and a zesty dressing. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ You'll need (serves 2): 150g black rice 500g Chantenay carrots 50g dried apricots 1 chilli - add to taste 25g ginger 2 tbsp brown rice miso 2 tbsp maple syrup 1 tbsp sesame seeds 2 tbsp tamari 15g chervil 10g mint 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil 2 tbsp tahini 1 lime 150g baby spinach ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Preheat your oven to 190˚C/Gas 5. Rinse the rice then boil and cook for 35-40 mins, until tender with a little bite. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Meanwhile, scrub the carrots well and halve (or quarter) any large ones, lengthways. Roughly chop the apricots. Finely slice the chilli. Peel and finely grate the ginger. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Tip the carrots and ginger into a large bowl. Add the miso, ½ the maple syrup (1 tbsp), the sesame seeds, ½ the tamari (1 tbsp) and 3 tbsp of oil. Toss until everything is well coated, then transfer to a roasting tin. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Roast the carrots for 15 mins, then toss in the apricots and chilli (to your own taste). Roast for a further 10 mins, until the carrots are golden and just tender with a little bite. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Meanwhile, roughly chop the chervil, stalks and all. Pick the leaves from the mint, then finely shred. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ In a small bowl, mix the remaining tamari with the sesame oil, tahini and remaining maple syrup. Add lime juice, to taste, and loosen it with a little water if necessary. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ When cooked, drain the rice, then pop it back in the pan and cover with a lid or plate to and keep it warm. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Once the carrots are cooked, add the herbs and a couple of handfuls of spinach to the roasting tin. Gently toss together. Check the seasoning. Add a squeeze of lime juice if needed. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Serve the roast carrots over the rice, drizzled with the dressing.
  • A sign of Christmas on the farm? We couldn't resist sharing these beautiful images taken by our photographer James of a resident robin on our Devon farm. Our farms are thriving with wildlife, which is generally the case with organic farms - on average, plant, insect and bird life is 50% more abundant 🐛 This little robin may make you think that Christmas must be just around the corner, but in reality robins can be seen all year round and rarely move far from where they've hatched. There are various reasons why robins are associated with Christmas... One is due to their red breasts being a festive colour. Another is that the tradition of sending Christmas cards started in Victorian times, who nicknamed postmen 'robins' because they wore red waistcoats. Who knew!
  • RECIPE - Caramelised Onion & Ricotta Gnocchi ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Meltingly soft and sweet onions form the basis for this mellow, autumnal dish. The gnocchi is boiled, then cooled and fried to ensure crispness – the perfect foil to the silky onions and slightly bitter cime di rapa. Season with lemon juice and top with creamy ricotta. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ You'll need (serves 2): 2 red onions, thinly sliced 2 tbsp thmye leaves 25g butter 200g cime di rapa (or spinach - use 100g), stalks & leaves chopped 10g parsley, chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 cauliflower (if large, use ½), cut into bite size pieces 1 pack gnocchi 1 tbsp capers 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar 1 tsp light brown sugar ¼ tsp chilli flakes - add to taste 1 lemon 120g ricotta ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Melt ½ the butter with 1 tbsp of oil in a large saucepan. Fry the onions with ½ the thyme on a low heat for 20 mins, stirring now and then. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Fill a medium saucepan with boiled water and add a pinch of salt. Bring to the boil. Add the gnocchi. As soon as they bob to the surface (approx. 2 mins), drain and transfer to a plate. Pour over 1 tbsp of oil and toss to coat. Set aside. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Heat 2 tbsp of oil in a frying pan, stir-fry the cauliflower on a med-high heat for 4-5 mins, to just colour the florets. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Once the onions are completely soft, add the cime di rapa stalks and cauliflower. Cover and cook for 3-4 mins. Add the garlic and capers and cook, stirring for 1 min. Increase the heat slightly. Stir in the vinegar, sugar and chilli flakes (to your taste). Cook, stirring regularly, for 2-3 mins, until golden. Add the cime di rapa leaves. Cook for 1-2 mins, until just wilted. Stir through the parsley. Season and add lemon juice to taste. Set aside. Heat the remaining butter in the frying pan until foaming. Fry the gnocchi for 2 mins on each side, until crisp and golden. Add the onion mix to the gnocchi pan and stir to combine. Serve, topped with crumbled ricotta, remaining thyme leaves and a grinding of pepper.

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